Symbols of Palestinian Identity: The Kuffiyeh
By Habiba and Issam
From the streets in the Hague to our university campuses, symbols of Palestinian identity and resistance have become popularized around the globe once again. Especially the Palestinian scarf, known as the Kuffiyeh, has re-emerged as a show of solidarity with the Palestinian people after the ongoing attacks on Gaza. However, misconceptions regarding Palestinian symbols such as the Kuffiyeh, remain, not least through popular media that for long, vilified the scarf as one worn by terrorists and extremists. Thus, this article aims to guide readers through the history and meaning behind the Kuffiyeh.
The Kuffiyeh
The checkered black and white scarf is first and foremost a marker of Palestinian identity, which tells the story of a unique heritage. The fishnet patterns on the scarf represent the historical connection between Palestinian sailors and the Mediterranean Sea. The bold lines are the ancient trade routes throughout historic Palestine used for economic and cultural exchange. Lastly, the wave-like patterns depict olive tree leaves which symbolize strength, resilience, and perseverance.
Initially, the scarf was worn by the Palestinian peasants, who formed a majority of the population in the country, to protect them against the burning sun. Under British colonial rule, the repression of the local Palestinian population increased in the 1930s, along with the expansion of Zionist settlement, which led to more displacement of Palestinian villagers. To protest such measures, Palestinian peasants began to revolt and were subsequently targeted by British forces. During ‘the Great Arab Revolt’ of 1936-39, the British prohibited the wearing of the checkered scarf as it became associated with activists and rebels who resisted British policies and the expulsion of Palestinians.
In response to this ruling and as a show of solidarity and resistance, Palestinians throughout the country and social classes began wearing the scarf, to make it harder for the British to identify and target the rebels. The Kuffiyeh, then, became a symbol of nationalistic pride, unity, and resistance against British colonialism and later on the Israeli occupation. Contrary to the inaccurate portrayals of the Kuffiyeh in some Western media as a token of terrorism, it is, in fact, a beacon of the Palestinian people's enduring struggle for justice and self-determination.
The Kuffiyeh has also appeared on global fashion runways as well as in streetwear collections due to its aesthetic appeal, which raises questions about the appropriation of cultural symbols, not least by Israeli designers. However, its adoption by activists and solidarity movements worldwide signals a broader recognition of its role as a symbol of resistance and a call to action.
In conclusion, Palestinian symbols of identity, such as the Kuffiyeh, are not just articles of clothing or slogans; they have deep historical roots, meanings and are a testament to the perseverance and resilience of a people in their struggle for justice and peace.
Due to misconceptions and negative stereotyping, Palestinians living abroad have witnessed hate crimes, discrimination, and even killings for wearing the scarf. Similarly, Palestinians living in Occupied Palestinian Territories can not wear the Kuffiyeh without the risk of getting targeted by the Israeli Security Forces. Today, only one Palestinian factory that produces local Kuffiyeh remains– the Hirbawi textile factory, in Hebron, Palestine.
To purchase locally produced Kuffiyehs: https://www.hirbawi.ps/
Disclaimer: the writers' opinions are their own and not associated with MENA Student Association.
Photo from Kufiyah.org
Sources and Further Readings
Fayyad, Abdallah. "The Keffiyeh's Symbolism and Palestinian History." Vox, December 6, 2023. https://www.vox.com/2023/12/6/23990673/keffiyeh-symbolism-palestinian-history.
Hirbawi. Accessed March 11, 2024. https://www.hirbawi.ps/.
Sottile, Zoe. "Palestinian Keffiyeh: A Symbol of Resistance and Identity." CNN Style, November 28, 2023. https://edition.cnn.com/2023/11/28/style/style-palestinian-keffiyeh-explained/index.html.
Swedenburg, Ted. "Kufiyah," in Global Middle East Into the Twenty-First Century, ed. Asef Bayat and Linda Herrera (2021), 162-174
Swedenburg, Ted. Memories of Revolt: The 1936–1939 Rebellion and the Palestinian National Past. University of Arkansas Press, 2014.
Swedenburg, Ted. "The Palestinian Peasant as National Signifier." Anthropological Quarterly 63, no. 1 (1990): 18–30. https://doi.org/10.2307/3317957.
The Observers - France 24. (2016, February 4). Outrage as Israeli designer “eroticises” Palestinian keffiyeh. https://observers.france24.com/en/20160204-israeli-designer-eroticization-palestinian-keffiyeh
